Q. I live in a multi-level townhouse. I've had a pest control company come out and all they did was spray the baseboards in all the rooms. The ants returned in less than a month. This question has to do with pest control technique, not how to hire a pest control professional.

A. In my experience, you can spray and spray all you want, but, eventually, the ants will be back. Not always, but most of the time. And the pest control companies LOVE this, because it means they get to come back too! If you REALLY want to solve the problem, you must find the source of the ants. Once you find the source, which will be their nest, you must eradicate the source. There are several pesticides on the market that will handle this. Yes, this can take some effort, and is time consuming, but it really is the best way to solve your ant problem. Can you find a pest control company that will do this? Probably, but it will cost you, one, because of the time involved, and two, because it cuts into their business to eliminate the problem. As I implied earlier, if they eliminate the problem, there's no reason for them to come back, which means less money for them.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. The only pests we have seen are spiders, and occasionally inside the house. I have seen things at Lowe's, but are they effective? Can they be sprayed inside and outside? What is a good price for hiring someone to do pest control?

A. Chances are that there are many effective products out there... In fact, many people don't realize that what pest control companies often use are products available to the every day homeowner. I'm not an expert on spider control, but you would very likely find a suitable product by contacting a couple companies as if you were interested in hiring them and then asking them what they use. By contacting 2 or 3 companies you will probably find a product that both works and is available. As far as hiring a pest control company goes, you should just contact a few and get their quote for your situation. Usually competition provides an easily determined market price. Some helpful guidelines to be thinking about when hiring a pest control pro can be found in the source section.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. We are dealing with a national pest control company that is notorious for shoddy contractors. I am very concerned about the exposed insulation where walls were left for 5 months, plus the fact the plastic curtain was removed and then they sanded drywall which filtered throughout my home. They have NEVER cleaned. They have agreed to pay for air/duct cleaning now, but I am very concerned about the insulation and exposure in the kitchen. HELP

A. Assuming * the yellow insulation is fiberglass * it was primarily undisturbed - minimal airborne fibers. Then, in R/L, the risk of health problems are prolly less than driving in traffic: However, should a lawyer describe this relatively benign situation in a civil suit, yall might as well be dead and buried... *L*

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I've had rats which after 2 months of pest control they should be history. I've sealed everything off around my mobile home completely. Now, I hear this ticking sound by the vents in the floor and the furnace is always off. I keep my home on the cool side-only use it in the morning for a few minutes. I am paranoid about rats and thought they might be in the duct/vents.Terrible damage done from rats. I had a duct/vent cleaning company come out-they say they get all mice, birds and rats etc. from the ducts. However, I still hear the noise-seems to be in the morning from about 9 to 10am and at night between 8 and 10pm. I had a contractor go under the mobile home and tie everything up and secure the vents with sheet metal and screws to prevent any movement. Then the noise got worse:loud, thump, tick-tick and bang. I don't know if my water lines go along the ducts/vent lines and could cause this noise? I am not using water at these times,either. My water heater is on the other side of the mobile home-10ft away in a straight line from the bathroom/bedroom wall. The vents on either side of this wall is where I hear the noise. All the water faucets, shower etc are on the opposite side of the house from the water heater. Could the water lines from the water heater (12 yr old water heater) cause this noise running close to the vents? I've done everything I know to do. These sounds have occurred during the past 3 months-since the rat thing. Any suggestions? anyone? please help.

A. I am a person who hears every little noise and must catalog what it is before I can stop concentrating on it. However I still am vary aware of each and every noise that takes place around me. What you are describing in my mind is expansion and contraction of the trailer and heating duct. This is amplified by the barren metal walls with in. Seeing that it got worse when they where secured that it most surely is the case because now not only does the metal have to struggle more in its secure fastening it has to deal with the expansion of the trailer. If the noise gets to where it is irritating you try laying out a heavy peace of cut carpet along the bottom of the duct to collect some of the noise. When I had a rat or mouse problem in another home I used plastic bags to alert me of their presence. I would hear a distinct rustling of the bags.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. In a mobile home, I hear clicking, ticking noises by the bathroom and bedroom vents-they are adjacent to each other. I had a bad problem with rats-pest control came out for 2 months-caught 2. They had chewed up water lines and the over flow pressure tube from the hot water heater. I had the ducts/vents cleaned out by professionals, in case, some mice were making the noise I still hear by the vents-usually at 9 to 10am and 8-9pm at nite or so. I still hear the tick, tick noise. I had a contractor go under the mobile home and secure the vents with sheet metal and tighten pipes and anything that might rattle-down-now, the noise is even louder-thud, bang and tick, tick. The hot water heater is in a straight line about 10ft on the other side of the mobile home from the bathroom/bedroom. What could be causing this noise? could it be the hot water heater? The water faucets/shower are on the opposite side of the house from the hot water heater-its 12 yrs old,now and I have very hard water. Would a plumber be the one to call? Please help me. I've sealed all around my mobile home against rodents, plugged all holes and pulled all insulation out, secured everything-still here that noise. I still hear the noise about 10ft from where the hot water heater,near the bathroom/bedroom vents. Either its 'evil spirits', or....hot water heater making noises in the water lines? I've spent thousands trying to get back to 'normal'-from the rat damage etc. and I don't want to replace the hot water heater if I don't have to-but, I will-just to get some peace-if that's what the noise is coming from. Help! I've had a very bad time. What do you think it might be, please?

A. It sounds like the expansion and contraction of the pipes and heating duct surfaces. You really need to relax. I live in an old house and it makes all kinds of noises. Try putting on the tv or a mellow radio station or a fan as white noise and don't worry about the normal noises of living.If you see a rodent then that is one thing but don't freak about stuff that's not that big of a deal. Relax.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I want to get my earnest money back, and I want ALL OF IT !! I made an offer on a house with the intentions of living in it not rehabbing it. The offer was accepted, and we had the home inspected. There are a lot of things wrong with the house. It costs more money to repair these things than I can afford, and besides I'd rather buy something worth the money I would have to spend, rrather than put money into the house for major things. The house needs new windows, tuckpointing all around and a new roof. Here is a letter I wrote to the seller, tell me what u think. HELP !!!! All these problems need to be remedied before this transaction can go any further. If the issues are not addressed we will continue on our search for a home. FURNACE The furnace/central air needs to be properly and completely installed and functioning. The furnace needs a shut off valve, and a plastic exhaust pipe. Debris in the "clean out" area at the base of the chimney should be removed as part of system service. PLUMBING The old steel piping is subject to corrosion on the interior of the pipe. As corrosion builds up, the inside diameter of the pipe becomes constricted, resulting in a loss of water pressure. This piping is typically replaced when the loss of pressure can no longer be tolerated. ELECTRICAL Extension cords should not be used as permanent wiring. This wiring should be removed through out the house. Poor connections between newer wiring and the old-knob-and-tube wiring were observed. All connections of this type should be performed within junction boxes, fitted with cover plates. The installation of a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is required in the kitchen and bathroom. GFCI offers increased protection from shock or electrocution. STRUCTURE Evidence of termite damage was observed and there is risk of additional hidden damage since termites can do a substantial amount of damage. If the property hasn't already been treated, a licensed pest control specialist should be engaged to eliminate further termite activity within the home. All damaged wood should be repaired or replaced. ROOFING The downspout should discharge water at least 5 feet from the house. Storm water should be encouraged to flow away from the building at the point of discharged. Install downspout at left rear section of house. Stairs leading to basement need hand rails. Drop ceiling in same area needs to be repaired. The fireplace needs a damper. All appliances must stay.

A. Well did you make your offer based on it passing inspection or your obtaining financing? Those are two very common terms when putting down earnest money. Did you understand what Earnest Money was? The earnest money is an amount of money that the buyer puts up to show he or she is serious about purchasing the property. The money represents the buyer's commitment to buy and acts as an unofficial option on the property. After receiving an earnest money check, the seller will usually stop showing the property, and wait to see if the buyer can get a mortgage. Earnest money is important to the transaction because it shows the seller that the buyer is operating in good faith (hence the name, "earnest"). The bigger the deposit, the more reassuring it is to the seller, who thinks, "This buyer is serious.'' It also ties the buyer to the property and keeps him or her from looking for additional properties. When Do I Get The Earnest Money Back? If the sale goes through, the earnest money is used as part of the cash down payment and is paid to the seller. If the sale does not go through because of a reason covered by a contingency in the contract (if, for example, the buyer could not get a mortgage), the seller should sign a release of escrow and the earnest money will be refunded to the buyer. The earnest money should also be refunded to the buyer if the sale does not go through because of a problem on the seller's side. If, however, the buyer backs out of the deal for no reason at all, or for a reason that is not covered by a contingency, return of the earnest money may go to the seller. FSBO (For Sale By Owner) Earnest Money If negotiating directly with the seller without the assistance of a Realtor®, never give the earnest money directly to the seller. If you are dealing with a for-sale-by-owner seller who insists upon earnest money before a contract can be executed, write the check to their lawyer or closing attorney or your lawyer or closing attorney, and write fiduciary agent after the lawyers name. This money will then go into a trust, or escrow, account until the negotiations are completed, the contract signed, and all contingencies met. If the deal falls apart, you'll get it back. But if you give the earnest money directly to the seller, you may never see it again, or you may have to go to court to get it back. Good Luck to you.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. A study by a University of Chicago doctoral student Oscar Vela (and published by Time) , looked at the percent people misrepresented their income and then ranked them by profession. 1) Production Workers - bakers, butchers, factory workers, jewelers 2) Building and Ground Maintenance - cleaning staffs, janitors, landscapers, pest control workers 3) Transportation and Material Moving Operations - bus drivers, parking lot attendants, movers 4) Construction Trade - contractors, electricians, house painters 5) Install, Maintain and Repair - auto mechanics, home Appliance repairmen, locksmiths 6) Life, Physical and Social Sciences - chemists, economists, zoologists 7) Protective Services - crossing guards, firefighters, police, security guards 8 ) Personal Care - childcare workers, funeral attendants, manicurists 9) Arts, Design, Entertainment, Sports and Media - actors, editors, public relations specialists 10) Healthcare Support - dental assistants, home health aides, massage therapists Don't you think it's remarkable that the top five are ALL union dominated trades?

A. Funny with jobs like this they are not RICH either!!!!! Tax the RICH feed the poor...... Bullshit!

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. We noticed that we have carpenter ants in a wood beam of our home on the outside. We were hoping that this would be resolved with one pest control application, but Orkin wants to set up a quarterly application plan, which entails a lot more money. What is the typical application procedure, and do we really need the "quarterly plan?" I appreciate your input in advance.

A. Your pest control company is correct on many levels regarding a quarterly plan. First, there are no products that last indefinitely, they are actually designed to break down fairly rapidly in the environment. So once the current application have dissipated, there will be no active product left to stop them from coming back. Second, carpenter ants communicate through the use of pheromones. So ants will be drawn in again following the pheromones. Carpenter ants can forage for food up to 300 feet from their nest and can have numerous sub colonies. As far as do it yourself treatments go, you can absolutely treat pest problems by yourself but they do require certain steps. You must make a positive identification of the pest involved and then learn everything you can about them from reputable sources. When it comes to carpenter ants you need to know that the queen does not exit the nest to forage for food. So you can spray all you want, killing only workers. It will look like you killed them all but if the queen survives so does the colony and you will be re-infested. The other person that answered saying to use bait is on the right track there but I always recommend first following them to try to find their nest and then making a direct application with a dust type product. Always read and follow all label directions as the label is the law. Visit www.pestech.com for more information or www.pestechshop.com for products.

(No Chosen Answer)